A Storm in the Attenuation Stage as a Factor in Seasonal Deformations of a Sandy Coastal Profile

D. V. Korzinin

Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russian Federation

e-mail: moroz@poi.dvo.ru

Abstract

Purpose. The purpose of the study is to consider both the features of storms in the attenuation stage as a factor in the coastal profile restoration after storm erosion, and a potential cause of seasonal deformations.

Methods and Results. Seasonal morphodynamics of accumulative coastal areas was studied in the regions both of the Vistula Spit (South-Eastern Baltic) based on the monitoring measurements of coastal profile performed by the employees of the Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, RAS, from May 2019 to March 2022 and the Oktyabrskaya Spit (western Kamchatka) using the measurement data taken in 2010–2011. Two indices describing the storm structure are used: the ratio of the attenuation stage duration to the total storm duration Rt, and the ratio of the median value of storm wave height during the attenuation stage to the peak wave height of the storm event RHs. The variations in Rt and RHs during a year are statistically analyzed based on the ERA5 long-term wave reanalysis data. It is found that the Rt index does not tend to change on a seasonal scale. When the RHs index is close to one and changes slightly during a year, the coastal profile does not experience seasonal changes. If RHs changes in course of a year decreasing significantly during the period of more intense waves, the coast experiences seasonal changes.

Conclusions. The variations in wave intensity during a year do not always result in the change of average position of the coastal profile. The key factor may consist in the seasonal trends in wave parameter changes within a storm cycle. The proposed index RHs can be regarded as a criterion for the behavior type of sandy coasts on a seasonal scale.

Keywords

sandy coast, coastal profile, wave regime, underwater bar, morphodynamics, seasonal deformations, stages of storm

Acknowledgements

The research was supported by the Russian Science Foundation (RSF, grant 24-27-00238). The author is grateful to M. N. Shtremel, P. M. Belova and A. Kazakov who participated in the field work on the Vistula Spit, and to S. L. Gorin, E. A. Kravchunovskaya and I. I. Tembrel who took part in the field work in the settlement Oktyabrsky in the Western Kamchatka and thanks to whom the valuable data on the coastal profile morphodynamics were obtained.

Original russian text

Original Russian Text © D. V. Korzinin, 2025, published in MORSKOY GIDROFIZICHESKIY ZHURNAL, Vol. 41, Iss. 1, pp. 20–35 (2025)

For citation

Korzinin, D.V., 2025. A Storm in the Attenuation Stage as a Factor in Seasonal Deformations of a Sandy Coastal Profile. Physical Oceanography, 32(1), pp. 17-31.

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